Monday, March 19, 2012
Teatro Colon
Last week I went to see my first Opera show at Teatro Colon. Originally I had just planned to take a guided tour to see the beautiful theater that was only recently reopened after years of renovation. But after realizing that it cost 110 pesos to take a 50 min tour (~$30 USD) and 55 pesos (~$10 USD) to see an Opera show I opted to go to a performance (granted they were standing room only tickets in the back of the theater, but it was worth it). I will also note that Argentine citizens only have to pay 30 pesos to take the tour. Taking advantage of tourists, not fair! Hahah. Anyway, the Opera I went to see was "La pasión según San Marcos," a passion play composed by Argentine composer Osvaldo Golijov in 2000. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but the Opera's mixture of Salsa, Cumbia, African drums and percussion and classical European Opera singing was a surprise. The odd mixture of sounds and styles made the performance very enjoyable, despite being cramped in an odd position on the floor of the standing room section (because I'm so tall if I stood up the balcony above cut off all vision of the stage, hahah). The interior of the theater is spectacular, with beautiful detailing along the balconies and viewing boxes. I'm so glad I had a chance to go!
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Los ultimos días
Its hard to believe that I only have one more week left here in Argentina. Tomorrow is my last day of my internship and then I will be flying home next Wednesday night. For my last day it just so happens that there is a conference scheduled that we were invited to, so I will be going with my coworkers to an event sponsored by a coalition of groups dedicated to the issues of people of African descent in Argentina. My last week has been mostly about tying up loose ends. On Monday I visited the US Embassy again to use their database of grant organizations to make sure I hadn't missed any the first time. After working on grant applications for the past 10 weeks I have come to realize how difficult it is for small NGOs to grow and expand their impact. Grant applications usually include questions about the success of previous or current programs in order to gauge the capacity of your organization to manage the funds responsibly. Similarly, they often ask about what other sources of other funding you receive. Its hard to sound convincing if your NGO is in the process of beginning programs and doesn't have a long history of previous funding.
On Wednesday I went on my final visit to the Office of Immigration. First however, we passed by the Bus terminal to represent a Senegalese man named Bamba who works in vending merchandise such as sunglasses, jewelry and watches along the coast of the Rio de la Plata. On his trip back to Buenos Aires all of his merchandise "went missing" from the cargo area of the bus he was traveling on. The bus company upheld that it was not their responsibility and had no way of recovering or compensating him for his suitcase of merchandise. The suitcase was everything this man had, and the only means of making money to support himself. The approximate value of all the merchandise in his suitcase was about $2400 pesos (~$550), without accounting for what he could get from selling it. After a year in Buenos Aires, the thought of starting over is devastating. We left the bus terminal without much consolation that the bus company really had any intention of following up with the case. While waiting at the Office of Immigration I spoke with Bamba about how he ended up in Argentina. He said he arrived with the intention to make enough money so he could go back to Senegal and make a better life for himself. He spoke Spanish very well and said he like it in Buenos Aires, but his intent was, and still is, to return to Senegal.
Today was my last day in the office (since tomorrow is the conference). In retrospect I think this has been an amazing experience and I am grateful that I was able to work alongside people who are so passionate about giving immigrants an opportunity to succeed in Argentine society. Although I had a lot of frustrations with the structure of my work and the difficulty I experienced in gathering information for my grant applications, I think I have gained valuable experience in the field of international development and in relation to immigration policy both in Argentina and internationally.
On Wednesday I went on my final visit to the Office of Immigration. First however, we passed by the Bus terminal to represent a Senegalese man named Bamba who works in vending merchandise such as sunglasses, jewelry and watches along the coast of the Rio de la Plata. On his trip back to Buenos Aires all of his merchandise "went missing" from the cargo area of the bus he was traveling on. The bus company upheld that it was not their responsibility and had no way of recovering or compensating him for his suitcase of merchandise. The suitcase was everything this man had, and the only means of making money to support himself. The approximate value of all the merchandise in his suitcase was about $2400 pesos (~$550), without accounting for what he could get from selling it. After a year in Buenos Aires, the thought of starting over is devastating. We left the bus terminal without much consolation that the bus company really had any intention of following up with the case. While waiting at the Office of Immigration I spoke with Bamba about how he ended up in Argentina. He said he arrived with the intention to make enough money so he could go back to Senegal and make a better life for himself. He spoke Spanish very well and said he like it in Buenos Aires, but his intent was, and still is, to return to Senegal.
Today was my last day in the office (since tomorrow is the conference). In retrospect I think this has been an amazing experience and I am grateful that I was able to work alongside people who are so passionate about giving immigrants an opportunity to succeed in Argentine society. Although I had a lot of frustrations with the structure of my work and the difficulty I experienced in gathering information for my grant applications, I think I have gained valuable experience in the field of international development and in relation to immigration policy both in Argentina and internationally.
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Alfajores
Alfajores de maizena: dulce de leche sandwiched between fluffy sugar cookies (maizena means corn starch which contributes to their fluffy texture) and then rolled in coconut flakes. Alfajores are a very typical desert here in BA and can be ordered in almost every café. They come in other varieties too including white or milk chocolate covered ones with different style cookies.
Friday, March 9, 2012
El amor de tango
I've been getting really interested in tango culture here in Buenos Aires, both as a dance and the people's passion for the music. Through one of the musicians and the tango place I've been going to I met a girl from the Seattle area who is doing her post grad work in ethnomusicology on the study of tango culture here in Buenos Aires. She is super knowledgeable about all the best places to see authentic tango performances (live musicians, not necessarily dancing) and how the tango movement has changed over the years. Contrary to the exported image of tango culture in Argentina, it is not all about glittery outfitted women and sensual dance moves. Dancing is part of it, but the music itself is what seems to be at the heart of Argentina's love of tango.
I went with my Seattle friend to a tango show a few nights ago and it was incredible. It was so fascinating to see how passionate people are about tango music here and how much it brings old and young generations together. Its hard to explain, but I feel like the spirit of tango in Argentine culture is more than just a custom or societal trait. We went to this one tiny little bar that is over 100 years old--the walls were lined with high shelves of dusty alcohol bottles and tattered paintings. Two old men played guitars (and at one point an accordion) and singing tango songs for hours, occasionally taking breaks to invite others to sing or refill their glass of wine. Since the bar was so small, people leaned in to see the music from the open windows and crammed behind the bar. My friend said that she met the same two old men in this bar six years ago when she first arrived in Buenos Aires. She explained to me that tango culture began to decline around the 1960's but experienced a revival in the 1990's as it became more publicized as unique to Argentine culture to inspire tourism. As a result tango bars and shows began popping up everywhere, creating new jobs for dancers and musicians. After the crisis of 2001 tango was taken up my younger generations as an expression of patriotism and pride. The revival of tango is about the rediscovery of the most famous classical tango singers, most of which are from the 1930's. My friend said that there is a budding movement for the integration of new tango songs written by current generations, but the majority of songs are well-known classics. Although one can experience tango culture in ritzy expensive tourist shows, the real tango culture is found in the back-ally tango bars where the Argentine people meet to share their love for the music and dance.
I went with my Seattle friend to a tango show a few nights ago and it was incredible. It was so fascinating to see how passionate people are about tango music here and how much it brings old and young generations together. Its hard to explain, but I feel like the spirit of tango in Argentine culture is more than just a custom or societal trait. We went to this one tiny little bar that is over 100 years old--the walls were lined with high shelves of dusty alcohol bottles and tattered paintings. Two old men played guitars (and at one point an accordion) and singing tango songs for hours, occasionally taking breaks to invite others to sing or refill their glass of wine. Since the bar was so small, people leaned in to see the music from the open windows and crammed behind the bar. My friend said that she met the same two old men in this bar six years ago when she first arrived in Buenos Aires. She explained to me that tango culture began to decline around the 1960's but experienced a revival in the 1990's as it became more publicized as unique to Argentine culture to inspire tourism. As a result tango bars and shows began popping up everywhere, creating new jobs for dancers and musicians. After the crisis of 2001 tango was taken up my younger generations as an expression of patriotism and pride. The revival of tango is about the rediscovery of the most famous classical tango singers, most of which are from the 1930's. My friend said that there is a budding movement for the integration of new tango songs written by current generations, but the majority of songs are well-known classics. Although one can experience tango culture in ritzy expensive tourist shows, the real tango culture is found in the back-ally tango bars where the Argentine people meet to share their love for the music and dance.
Monday, March 5, 2012
Asado!
Restaurants that serve traditional Argentinean Asado (grilled meat) are called "Parillas" (the "ll" is pronounced like "sh"). Beef is a huge staple in the Argentine diet. According to a 2009 study Argentina was found to be the country with the highest per capita consuption of beef in the world, with an average of 64.6 kg per person. The U.S. came in second with 40.2 kg per person. The meat cuts are very different here to the meat cuts you encounter in the U.S. The Argentine's have a very particular way of cutting beef and preparing it slowly on the asado grill. Parilla restaurants usually have the grill out in front as you walk in so you can see all the meat spread out as the "Asador" is cooking it. A typical Asado meal will come with a variety of different cuts on a metal grill plate. Each cut is distinct and prepared a certain way. For example, "mollejas" (the lining of the neck apparently) is very popular and is eaten with fresh lemon. Below are photos of the asador cooking at the grill and a typical asado dish served at a Parilla.
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